Very few other people have made the effort to ascend Signal Hill, and we are able to enjoy the magnificent views over Dunedin, the upper harbour, and the sea, undisturbed.

So far today, all of our four destinations have been easy to find, and have been located in a relatively small area to the north of the Octagon. Our next objective, however, is some sixteen kilometres to the southwest of Dunedin's centre. This objective is Tunnel Beach, and it is slightly difficult to navigate to as it's not marked on our maps. Nevertheless, it only takes forty minutes to get there, arriving at 3pm.

Our route takes us through the residential area of St Hilda where we are surprised to see a new housing estate of good quality, 4-bedroom detached properties - something we have not previously seen in New Zealand

From a small car park above Tunnel Beach, we walk down a steep grassy path towards the coast. Gradually, breathtaking coastal views unfold of creamy sandstone cliffs and islets that have been weathered into curious shapes. The steep path continues through brush and pasture until a magnificent sea-arch is displayed against a backdrop of a lovely blue sky and crashing white surf.

 

Our descent continues and we are able to watch the waves spraying up the cliffs and the rocks, and through the arch.

 

A tunnel, in which we count 73 steps, takes us down to the beach. Everywhere there are great views of the cliffs, sky, sea and surf. A most memorable experience.

 

It takes us just 15-minutes to drive back into Dunedin, where we park near the railway station. Opened in 1906, it was built to be the jewel in the crown of New Zealand Railway. It is said to be the most photographed building in the country, but the real surprise is the interior

The main foyer gleams with majolica wall tiles made especially for New Zealand Railways by Royal Doulton in gentle tones of green, yellow, and cream. A fine, classical, china frieze of cherubs and foliage encircles the room. The mosaic floor celebrates the steam age and consists of 725,760 'half-inch' porcelain squares. Upstairs, on the balcony, two stained-glass windows each depict an approaching train - from whatever angle these are observed, a marble of clear glass gives an impression of an illuminated train headlight. Besides the main entrance to the station, a plaque commemorates the New Zealand railwaymen who fell in the First World War.

The station was closed to normal traffic in 1982, and is now just the departure point for tourist trips to Taierei Gorge. The station overlooks a Flemish garden with attractive flower beds.

Dominating this central area of the city is the Municipal Chambers, a classical structure complete with clock tower and a statue of Robert Burns (left).

Nearby is St Paul's Cathedral (right), which we visit. Entirely constructed of Oamaru stone, it has a 65-metre-high stone-vaulted ceiling, the only one of its kind in New Zealand

From the Octagon, we walk up George Street to find the Huntsman Steakhouse. Our evening meal begins with us both having the reliable starter of seafood chowder. We both then have baked potato with salads from the huge selection on the salad bar. Jeanette has blue cod (which is small), while David has ribeye steak (which is large). Dessert is chocolate mudcake (J) and carrot cake (D)

 

 

(left): a plaque on the Cathedral states:

After discovering overnight that "a tribute to New Zealand's 22 Victoria Cross recipients stands proudly on Anzac Square, in front of the station" we attempt to find it first thing this the morning, but cannot. The young station staff know nothing about it, and it is only when we get home that we find it has been moved to the Otago Museum.

Heading north on Highway 1, we drive to Mount Carillon which is said to have "unrivalled panoramic views of the Dunedin area". As we climb an unsealed road off the main road we enter cloud that makes going further pointless, so we continue north to Shag Point, on the coast near Palmerston.

Here, it is dry, windy, dull, and quite cold. There are two viewing areas that should provide sightings of yellow-eyed penguins and seals, but we only find just a few seals. However, there are interesting boards explaining the history of coal mining in the area.

A further 10-kilometres brings us to a much more visited tourist site: the Moeraki Boulders. After coffee in a restaurant, we use a short private trail to reach the beach where the large and almost perfectly spherical boulders lie partially submerged in the sandy beach below low cliffs. Most of the two-metre-diameter boulders are grey in colour, and have a smooth surface; a few are split open to reveal a honeycombed interior.

The boulders are strangely compelling, and we spend some time, as the sun attempts to brighten the scene, watching the sea wash over those that are farthest from the cliffs. The cliffs are the source of the boulders, and a few protrude from there, awaiting further sea erosion to deposit them on the beach.

 

The boulders were originally formed around a central core of carbonate of lime crystals which then attracted minerals from their surroundings