The gallery at the Royal Albatross Centre has displays on local wildlife and history, but the most fascinating item is a replica of a royal albatross illustrating its enormous wingspan of 3.5 metres. After our third video presentation of the day (this one narrated by David Attenborough) an enthusiastic guide gives an introductory talk and then takes us on an excellent 1½-hour tour. This begins with an uphill walk to the observatory as juvenile albatrosses swoop past. The observatory provides excellent views of these stunning birds, plus other seabirds, and a few rabbits.

The Disappearing Gun was manufactured in 1886 by W G Armstrong & Co at Newcastle-upon-Tyne, and had a range of 5-miles. Its 'Disappearing' name arose from its ram system that, on firing, the ram was compressed as the gun recoiled, 'disappearing' into the gun pit for reloading. Our guide demonstrates that the gun's six inch breech loading mechanism still works perfectly, before allowing some time for us to explore an interesting museum.

Departing Taiaroa Head, with its 1864 lighthouse, we retrace our route along the narrow, winding seashore road to Dunedin. arriving at our accommodation at 8:30pm. The Bella Vista Motel is just to the north of the city centre, which is known as the Octagon. The motel is located in what seems to be a slightly run-down area occupied by university students. Our room is on the upper floor, has an exterior entrance, and is small but extremely well designed. We are here for two nights.

Our supper is obtained by walking to a nearby Chinese Fish and Chip shop to obtain blue cod, chips, and fried rice, which we eat in our room. Today's temperature has been pleasantly warm, with occasional hot spells. Ideal weather for driving the 398-kilometres we have covered, and for viewing all the sights we have seen on the Otago Peninsula

 

The advantageous weather continues today, which is to be spent in and

around Dunedin. We begin by visiting Dunedin's Historic Home: Olveston

Built in 1904-1906 for David Theomin, this Jacobean-style house is filled with a masterpiece of modernity for its time: central heating; heated towel rails; in-house telephone system. But Jeanette soon spots that it is built the wrong way round - instead of the principal rooms facing the sun, it is the servant's quarters that face that way.

We are on the house's first tour of the day at 9:30am, which is very interesting, presenting the house and its contents very well. The gardens are lovely too, and we have the added bonus of seeing the house's vintage Fiat being taken out of the garage and driven away.

One interesting feature of the house's design is the location of the scullery window (right) reached by a short flight of steps. This allowed for deliveries to be made without the delivery boy gaining access to the kitchen (and the kitchen maids!).

Olveston is not far from our motel, as are our next two objectives, both being on the northern side of Dunedin. The first of these is Baldwin Street, which features in the Guinness Book of Records as "the steepest street in the world".

We climb Baldwin Street steadily, utilising convenient steps in the pavement. The climb, in three gradually steepening sections, emphasises just how amazingly steep the street is with its angle of over 38-degrees.

During the annual 'Gutbuster' event in mid-February, contestants run to the top of the street and back down again - some achieving this feat in under two minutes. There is an example of such a fitness freak at the top of the street, covered in perspiration and with the veins in his forehead bulging, but he has enough breath to chat to us and take our photographs.

 

From an old Post Office at the foot of Baldwin Street we get a certificate commemorating our achievement before driving to the Botanic Gardens

On arrival at the Botanic Garden we have ham quiches for our lunch followed by a shared strawberry and chocolate muffin - which tastes better than its name suggests. We mainly explore the Lower Garden, which is divided from the Upper Garden by Lindsay Creek which flow into the nearby Water of Leith. The main features of this huge garden are the Winter Garden Conservatory, a very impressive Rock Garden, and the Rose Garden. There is also a fine statue of Peter Pan.

A short drive takes us to the top of Signal Hill (393-metres), the location of the Centennial Lookout: two powerful bronze figures symbolising the past and the future, and commemorating 100 years of British sovereignty in 1940

View from Signal Hill

Embedded in the Lookout's podium is a stone that was  "Hewn from the rock on which Edinburgh Castle stands .... Auld Lang Syne"