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The Essence of Japan (continued)
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Kanazawa has produced gold leaf since 1593 and supplies over 98% of Japan’s needs. Akiko takes us to the Sakuda Golf-leaf Store where we see a lady handling the very thin sheets of gold. We are able to sample tea that has some gold leaf in it, gold leaf is everywhere here, even on the ice creams
We are in the Higashi Pleasure District in the centre of Kanazawa, which is again crowded with Japanese holiday tourists. Despite the crowds, the area is full of atmosphere with its old-fashioned street lamps, elegant restaurants and craft galleries. There are a number of girls in the streets dressed in colourful kimonos
Tonight, arrangements have been made for all the group to have dinner at a local sushi restaurant. This restaurant is located on the second floor of a building a short walk from the hotel. Our group are seated in a separate dining area that we share with another group, although they are behind a curtain. We are required to take off our shoes, and are then seated on low cushions, before a low table, with our feet in a well beneath the table. We are served by a shy young girl who has difficulty understanding our requests and there is much pointing at the menu. Our choices are steamed dumplings, tuna rolls, and crab topped rice, which proves to be surprisingly filling
This morning we continue to explore Kanazawa, beginning with a visit to the Nagamachi Samurai. A long street, alongside a canal with frequent bridges, brings us to the Takada House which we enter. This is an example of a samurai house, and although the interior is similar to other Japanese buildings we have seen, this one features a stunningly beautiful garden with water features fed by the adjacent canal, and beautiful azaleas. Samurai were the military nobility and officer caste of medieval and early-modern Japan, and a fearsome looking mannequin wears the ornate and colourful armour that they wore
After the house visit, we explore the quarter on our own with its narrow lanes and mud walls that are interspersed with substantial gates behind which are more Samurai houses. In the main street with its canal and many bridges, we purchase a local sweet called dango, a glutinous confection made into balls on a stick (right).

The bus then transports us to the Kenroku-en Gardens, famous at one of Japan’s “great three” gardens. The garden’s name translates as the “garden of six qualities” - spaciousness; seclusion; air of antiquity; ingenuity; flowing water; and views. With the large crowds that are here we are unable to appreciate all these qualities, but it is a very large and attractive garden. 

The garden has a number of lakes and Akiko firstly takes us to the largest: Kasumigaike(misty pond). At the edge of the lake is an impressive, two-legged stone lantern (left) known as Kotoji because it is shaped liked the bridge of a koti (stringed instrument)

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