[Day 10] Monday, May 1st.
We are up at 3am, but unlike our previous early morning flights, this does not require having breakfast
at the airport out of a cardboard box. The hotels restaurant is open at 4am, and we are the first to arrive there just before that
time, having first put our cases out for collection. We depart for Quito Airport at 4:45am, travelling on a bumpy, rural road that
appears (in the dark) to follow a deep canyon before we reach a proper road that leads to the airport. After all our bags are x-rayed,
Fernando checks-in our hold luggage, and we then proceed through security to Gate A5 for Avianca flight AV 1632. We are allocated
seats 12D (D) and 17C (J) but are able to sit together in 17A&B as the Airbus A320 has lots of empty seats at the rear of the
aircraft.
The flight from Quito to Guayaquil backs-off at 6:37am; takes-off at 6:54am; and lands at 7:29am. We decline a sandwich,
but have some water. As we approach Guayaquil, we can see large areas of flooded land. We stay in our seats as some passengers get
off and many more get on to occupy the seats at the rear. The flight then continues to Baltra Island back-off at 8:13am; take-off
at 8:22am, and we are then served a chicken sandwich and coffee. Having been appraised of the need to prevent diseases entering the
islands unique eco system, we are only mildly surprised when the cabin crew open all the overhead lockers and spray the contents.
After
landing at a hot and sunny Baltra Island at 10:01am, we are required to walk through an anti-bacterial dip before a bus takes us the
short distance to a jetty, where a Zodiac is moored. After the 14 occupants don life jackets, we are transported to our home for the
next three nights: the M/V Galapagos Legend, where we are welcomed with a Bucks Fizz and a cold, refreshing face towel. We are then
escorted to our Junior Suite cabin which is numbered 1, and named Giant Tortoise.
Our cabin is located at the front of the ship,
on the port side of Earth deck; it is very spacious with a very large bed and two good-sized picture windows. There is plenty of storage
space in drawers under seating units, plus two small wardrobes. We decide it will be more convenient to use the wardrobes for certain
specific items with the cases arranged on the large seating unit. The bathroom is also a good size and has what proves to be a very
good shower. Overall, we are surprised and delighted by this spacious cabin, although a couple of easy chairs would have been appreciated.
After
exploring some of the ship, we have lunch at 12pm. Our group of eight has its own table one that we are to retain for all our meals
on board. The Lonesome George restaurant is situated on Sea Deck and its buffet operation is not crowded as, with 50 passengers on
board, the ship is only half full. The food is of excellent quality, a standard that is maintained for all our meals. Today we have
vegetable soup; red snapper; and desserts.
Lunch is followed by presentations on behalf of the ship and the National Park's rangers,
who both set out the basic rules to be followed for our safety and the preservation of these unique islands. The ship will retain
Ecuador time even though the islands themselves are 1-hour behind the mainland. As we are still close to the Equator, the sun will
continue to rise and set at 6am and 6pm each day.
The joint presentations are followed by a lifeboat drill and, consequently,
there is not much time to prepare ourselves or get organised (apparel; suntan; rucksack; water; cameras, etc) before we depart by
Zodiac at 4:15pm to the island of Santa Cruz, off which the Galapagos Legend is now moored.
Santa Cruz is the second largest
of the Galapagos Islands, and it's located just to the south of Baltra Island, where we embarked. The island is the main tourism hub
for all of Galapagos, and It is the only island in the archipelago where tourists can readily experience the interior and higher elevations
of a Galapagos island, which is what we do after a long Zodiac ride from the ship to a small pier. We are a group of 14 who clamber
into the Zodiac, a procedure which we are soon to become very familiar with a group made up of our eight plus six others, now known
as The Dolphins. A bus ride of about 30 minutes then takes us along part of the longest paved road in the islands as we head south
to the Highlands Tortoise Reserve, based at the El Chato Ranch. We drive through an area of varying geology and flora, and then on
approaching the Reserve, see our first giant tortoise.
Our accompanying Park Ranger (Jocelyn) guides us on a stroll through the
reserve, during which we see a number of giant tortoises. As we are to find on all our trips ashore, the animals are completely unfazed
by our presence. Although we are required to get no closer than 2-metres to the animals, one of the tortoises is unaware of this rule
and slowly ambles past in closer proximity. This is a magical moment, seeing these huge, gentle creatures at such close range. Jocelyn
also takes us through a lava tube before we end the walk with some fruit and ice tea.
The bus then returns us to the pier, and
the Zodiac returns us the Galapagos Legend. This has been a wonderful introduction to the wildlife of the archipelago, as we have
also seen a variety of birds including pelicans; egrets; yellow warblers; and frigate birds. There was a little rain on the first
bus ride, but otherwise it was dry with some sunshine. After showering, we have dinner at 7:30pm which includes a main course (chicken)
selected earlier, and a dessert similar to Eton Mess. Afterwards there are cocktails at a Captain's reception that is combined with
a presentation regarding tomorrow's programme.
After a look at the stars in the clear sky, we end another long day by obtaining
some hot water to make Redbush tea; finding out how to turn the cabin's air-conditioning on and off; and preparing for tomorrow. We
are in bed by 10:15pm.
[Day 11] Tuesday, May 2nd.
The ship's radio based wake-up call is scheduled for 6:15am, but we set
our own alarm for 5:45am in order to be well prepared by 6:30am for breakfast, which has plenty of choice. During the night the ship's
anchor is raised very noisily as the Galapagos Legend sails north to the island of Genovesa, crossing the Equator en route. This horse-shoe
shaped island has a volcanic caldera whose wall has collapsed, forming the Great Darwin Bay, surrounded by cliffs. It is in
this bay that the Galapagos Legend moors to enable us to make two landings on the island a dry landing in the morning, and a wet
landing in the afternoon.
The ships passengers are split into four groups (Albatross; Boobies; Cormorants; Dolphins) and disembarkation
for each excursion ashore is done by rota. Today, Dolphins go second just after 7:30am. A short Zodiac rides (during which we see
sting rays jumping from the water) takes us to Prince Philips Steps at the base of the nearby cliffs, where there are a number of
sea lions and lots of birds. After a slightly tricky transfer from the Zodiac to the steps, we climb up to reach an ash trail that
crosses one of the arms of the caldera. There are a variety of birds close to the path and they are completely untroubled by our presence,
these include Nazca boobies; red-footed boobies; frigate birds; and mocking birds. Many of the frigate birds are displaying their
distinctive red pouches, and some of the boobies are nesting with chicks or eggs.
At the end of the trail, there are hundreds
of birds in the air, but we have come to this location specifically to see the elusive Galapagos short-eared owl. Eventually, we find
two specimens of this medium-sized owl one is fairly close in a dark cave, the other is more exposed but some distance away.
We
retrace our steps past the unconcerned birds close to the path, reboard the Zodiac, and are back on the Galapagos Legend by 10:30am.
The rest of the group go snorkelling in the bay, whilst we freshen up, get some cokes from the bar, and then attend an interesting
lecture on the Distribution of the Giant Tortoise. After watching the snorkelers return to the ship, we go for lunch at 12pm, where
the buffet includes red snapper, lasagne verde, chicken, and pineapple strudel. We then relax in our comfortable cabin until it is
time for an excursion to a glass-bottomed-boat.
The Zodiac trip to the glass-bottomed-boat is principally provided for those
who do not wish to go snorkelling. The boat manoeuvres alongside the cliffs and we see a variety of colourful and unusual looking
fish. However, we get better sightings of the sea lions and a blue night heron. Back on board we have a cup of tea with Chris before
sampling from the boats ice cream selection, which surprisingly, is set up in the hot sunshine.
At 4:30pm, we assemble for a
wet landing something we have prepared for, but are not particularly looking forward to. The Zodiac takes us to Darwin Beach,
which is located in the centre of the calderas horseshoe. With the aid of our trousers that zip off at the knee, our plastic Croc
shoes, and the supplied towels, we successfully land on the beach and switch footwear to our trainers. We then walk along the beach
observing a variety of birds, including a green night heron, and more sea lions.
The Zodiac only gets off the beach after lots
of pushing by the crew, but we are back aboard the Galapagos Legend by 6pm, where we have our feet and shoes thoroughly hosed down.
Back in our cabin, we give our shoes a further wash, in the shower, before dinner. After choosing from a self-selection of nuts and
cheeses, we sample salmon, soup, beef (D), shrimps (J), and profiteroles, all with a glass of wine. This evening there is a quiz based
loosely (and not very efficiently) on Who Wants to be a Millionaire. Lots of light-hearted fun with Dolphins finishing second of
the four groups, and feeling aggrieved not only that we got some harder questions, but that we answered these using only one of our
'lives'! But at least, we didn't have to perform the ridiculous forfeits imposed on the two teams finishing behind us.
[Day 12]
Wednesday, May 3rd.
Breakfast this morning is at 6:30am and the Zodiacs are due to depart at 7:30am. The Galapagos Legend has
now moved to be off the island of Santa Cruz again, this time at the north-west point known as Dragon Hill. Fortunately, we have a
dry landing, before commencing our walk. We soon see plenty of marine iguanas, and the usual variety of birds. We also see some pelicans,
and get sightings of blue-footed boobies, although only in flight. Close to the beach there are sea lions and some large, and very
colourful, crabs.
Following the sandy path inland, our prime objective is to find some land iguanas. The path has plenty of evidence
of their use of this path, as we are required to watch our step to avoid their poop! We spot lots of finches, spiders, and grasshoppers
before eventually finding nine magnificent land iguanas spread over the latter part of our walk. Most of these wonderful creatures
are just sitting on the path, ignoring our presence; others are close to their burrows.
Each time we reboard the Galapagos Legend we
are greeted by a small treat today it is fruit and a chocolate fountain when we get back at about 10am. After sampling these, we
get some coffee, relax with our books, then attend a briefing by Fernando regarding tomorrows arrangements, when we will commence
our journey home. Fernandos version of what will happen tomorrow morning before we leave the Galapagos Legend (a boat trip around
an island) is somewhat different from that detailed later by a Park Ranger who says that there will be a wet landing additionally
he states this will be at Mosquera Island when, in fact, it will be a wet landing at Bachas Beach on Santa Cruz.
Lunch choices
include fish; salad; nachos; banana cake (J); and rice pudding (D). As the ship makes its way to Sante Fe Island, David goes to the
room used by the Park Rangers in order to submit photographs for a competition. Downloading photographs to the rangers system is
a slow process, particularly when some of the competitors seem uncertain as to which of their photos they wish to enter. We spend
the next part of the afternoon relaxing, but David, who has started a cold, has a nap.
The 4:30pm visit to Sante Fe Island involves
a wet landing. We are slightly more prepared this time, but the expedition becomes completely wet when it starts to rain as we approach
the shore in the Zodiac, and then rains almost constantly whilst we are ashore. As we near our landing site, several large, red sting
rays swim by the boat. There are lots of sea lions on the beach and there are iguanas and lizards on the trail we follow. This trail
leads us to a large prickly pear cactus tree where we turn back and retrace our steps. It is still raining as the Zodiac transports
us to the Galapagos Legend. We are back just after 6pm, in time to shower before dinner.
A barbeque is scheduled on the Moon
Deck this evening, but the adverse weather causes it to be transferred to the dining room. We sample some steak from the barbeque
but also have chicken; some very large shrimps; baked potato and vegetables. There is an excellent avocado salad and the desserts
include chocolate cake, mousse, and portions of a birthday cake presented to a Malaysian girl.
Following the meal, our group
of eight (The Magnificent Seven plus Fernando) gather in the Library for some entertainment provided by Gill and Pam. This consists
of two excellent productions: a song based on ABBAs Fernando, and a lengthy poem that eludes to many of the adventures we have experienced
on the trip, and the characteristics of the Seven
A presentation by the ships crew and the rangers follows on Sky Deck. This
includes the showing of a CD made regarding our time in the Galapagos Islands (of which we receive a copy) and the announcement of
the results of the photographic competition. It is no surprise to the other members of the group (based purely on the size of his
telephoto lens!) that David is the winner with a shot of a booby sitting on an egg. His prize consists of a birthday calendar, a tropical
hat, and a key ring.
[Days 13 and 14] Thursday and Friday, May 4th & 5th.
Our long journey home commences at 5am
when we wake-up so as to put our cases out, and have our breakfast, at 6am. After breakfast, the rest of Dolphin group go ashore on
Bachas Beach as this is a wet landing, we have decided to keep ourselves dry and refreshed for the journey ahead. We therefore relax
in our cabin until 8:45am, then go for coffee. Soon after the Zodiacs return from Bachas Beach, the Galapagos Legend sails to nearby
Baltra Island. Our last Zodiac ride takes us ashore and we board the bus to the airport. Here, our luggage is checked through to Quito
and we board Aviancas A320 (Flight AV 1633), sitting in seats 11A&B. Our flight details are:
Galapagos to Guayaquil: back-off
@ 11:03; take-off @ 11:09; land @ 12:49
Guayaquil to Quito: back-off @ 13:42; take-off @ 13:55; land @ 14:29.
There are snacks provided
on both flights, and we remain on board in Guayaquil. We chat to a girl from Tuscon, Arizona, about our visits to Four Corners she
has been working as a medical volunteer in Ecuador, similarly to a British girl we spoke to in the Hilton Hotel.
In Quito airport,
Fernando leaves us, and we sit in the Stopover Lounge until a porter transports our luggage to check-in. Fernando has been more interactive
than Juan Carlos, but less efficient, particularly on following up on queries and requests. Although just four of our group of seven
are travelling Business Class, we stick together and bluff our way through the associated priority desk. Just four of us use the VIP
Lounge where we have soup, snacks, fruit, coffee, and some white wine. At 8:10pm we move to the Gate and board Iberia Flight 6454
for the 5,600-miles to Madrid. We are seated in the very comfortable Business Class section of this A340 Airbus. Seats 9D&H are
in the centre section, so although we are widely apart due to the generous size of the pods, we are alongside each other. We get glasses
of Bucks Fizz (although the flight attendants insist on calling them Mimosa) before the large, 4-engined aircraft backs-off at 8:40pm,
and takes-off at 9pm.
A good quality meal is served with some style after a starter consisting of an extensive array of items,
there is veal consomm(D), pan fried red snapper (J), beef tenderloin ragout (D), pineapple cake (J), ice cream (D). Unusually, the
flight attendants in Business Class have the services of a sommelier although he is unable to fulfil Jeanettes request for a Campari,
and she has to settle for a version of a Baileys. The seats convert to very comfortable beds and we manage a reasonable amount of
sleep before a breakfast of fruit and scrambled egg is served. We land in Madrid at 1:42pm. The Madrid flight (IB 3166 on an Airbus
A330; seats 7E&G in Business Class) is again very comfortable, although the onboard service is not very efficient. We back-off
at 4:02pm; take-off at 4:18pm; and land at Heathrow at 5:11pm. On this flight, Jeanette has "mango and rocket salad stuffed chicken
fillet with a saffron sauce and creamy barley with mushrooms" and David has "cottage cheese and spinach stuffed pasta with a 'Suquet'
sauce.
We are soon through immigration and customs at Heathrow, and are soon bidding farewell to the rest of the Magnificent
Seven. Davids cold is now at its height and he is not looking forward to the taxi ride home. We share the taxi with Sheri, who goes
on to Shropshire after we are delivered to Knowle. The front garden at home is looking very colourful and the wisteria on the pergola
is magnificent. The driver is not shy in sharing his obnoxious opinions with us on the journey, but David hears little of this
due to his blocked sinuses.
A most wonderful holiday, full of adventures, in which we achieved the prime objectives of visiting Machu Picchu and seeing some of the amazing animals of the Galapagos Islands. But a fairly stressful trip with six starts before 6am (including three before 5am), and a total of eleven flights, amounting to almost 36 hours in the air, as we fly over 17,500-miles. At ages 75, this trip could not have been postponed much longer.
(NOTE: a letter to SAGA after the holiday,
commenting on the lack of a pre-tour itinerary and the cost of the cable car excursion, resulted in a refund of 260.)